by Carolyn Singer, Foothill Cottage Gardens
Sierra Heritage, Jan./Feb. 1991
In the cold, short days of January and February, few gardeners
are willing to leave the warmth of the wood stove to work in a
garden that is dormant. The garden doesn't seem to need attention
when nothing is growing, but those who stay inside miss this perfect
time to work with plants.
A dormant plant sustains no shock when it's dug from the ground,
as long as its roots are not allowed to dry. These cold winter
months furnish the perfect conditions (cool and moist) for transplanting
without failure.
And it's bareroot season in the local nurseries. Bundle up some
winter day and visit a nursery for inspiration. You'll soon discover
that it's planting time for asparagus, strawberries, cane fruit,
grapes, fruit and nut trees, shade trees, and even horseradish.
Visions of an abundant harvest ahead will make you forget it's
winter.
Many plants are available only during this season, and prices
are usually lower now for bareroot plants, but only for a few
weeks. Soon the weather will be warmer, and plants will have to
be in containers in the nursery.
Make notes on the plants you plan to purchase; then head home
to assess your garden space. Can you really fit in that dream
orchard? This year it might be best to start small, with just
a few fruit trees; then, in the months ahead, you can prepare
more soil for more plantings the next bareroot season.
Choose a site in full sun for fruit trees. Fruit spurs and fruiting
wood will not develop if the plant is in shade during the growing
season. Soil must have good drainage during the winter. Nuts and
cherries will not survive in wet soils. Pears are more tolerant
of prolonged moist conditions, but even they will do better if
the soil has depth and adequate drainage.
It's a good idea to dig your planting holes before buying your
trees so you can assess the soil conditions. The hole for a fruit
tree should be at least three feet wide and three feet deep. Avoid
the use of animal manures to improve the soil in this planting
hole. Instead, use compost and a generous amount of an organic
phosphate powder (soft rock phosphate, colloidal phosphate, or
raw rock phosphate). Use at least two-thirds native clay soil
to one-third soil amendments in the final mix.
When the planting site is ready, return to the nursery. Remembering
how difficult it probably was to dig a few holes in unyielding
foothill soil, you will be inspired to bring home only as many
trees as you can plant. Choose a tree with a good strong root
system, that is, with a healthy main root and many fine feeder
roots. Being able to see the roots is the main advantage of buying
bareroot!
A tree with a smaller caliper (the diameter of the trunk) is younger,
and will often be more vigorous in the first year of growth, soon
catching up to a tree with a larger caliper. The smaller the caliper,
the younger the tree. A whip is the smallest caliper, with no
side branches. Whips adjust quickly to the new site, and are good
buys. Don't be tempted to buy the largest tree; young ones will
adjust more easily to the transition from the grower's field to
your orchard.
So, choose a whip or a very young tree with just a few branches.
The main trunk will be pruned back to a height of about three
feet, and only about three branches will be retained. Prune off
any broken branches, and select three branches that are at a 30-degree
angle to the trunk. Prune these to three inches, near a bud. Not
much left of your tree, is there? But this tree will do much better
than an unpruned bareroot tree, and its future shape as a productive
fruit tree is determined now, at planting time.
It's very important to keep the roots of bareroot stock moist.
Soaking the roots in a bucket of water for an hour before planting
is an excellent idea. After this soaking, handle the tree quickly
so it doesn't dry out, especially if it's a windy day. Any bareroot
stock bought before you've prepared a planting area should be
heeled into a moist planting medium. Sawdust works well for this
because you can lift the plant out easily, with minimal damage
to roots.
A young peach tree in bloom promises tree-ripened fruit in its
third year of growth.
Check the root system before planting, pruning off any damaged
roots to stimulate new healthy growth. Face the grafted portion
to the north to protect it from the hot sun. Fill in most of the
planting hole; then paint the tree with a water-base interior
white paint to protect the truck. Even in winter, the intense
foothill sun can damage tender young bark, causing splitting that
will allow the entry of insects or disease organisms. The paint
may be diluted for easy application, but if rains or irrigation
wash it off, it must be renewed. Trees should be kept painted
for a few years, until the bark is tougher and the branches shade
the trunk. Paint to an inch below the soil surface; then, when
the paint is dry, finish filling in the planting hole.
Irrigate deeply at planting time, even if rains are expected.
This first watering must be deep enough to soak the planting hole
and settle the soil mix. Now check to make sure no roots are exposed,
and add more soil if needed. Mulch heavily with compost; then
top with straw to prevent drying. Continue to irrigate this young
tree every two or three weeks during the cooler months, and every
week during the summer for the first year.
Pause now to appreciate your effort. Close your eyes and envision
fragrant blossoms, honeybees, young fruit developing on a warm
summer day, and finally, the harvest of delicious, tree-ripened
fruit! Aren't you glad you came outside to garden on a cold winter
day?
